We have more restaurants than we know what to do with in this town, spanning the spectrum of poor to excellent. My dive into French cuisine in the area has been limited to the amazingly consistent Petit Pois and the extremely mediocre and now out of business replaced by Asia Fortune, Bohème. I can finally add Fleurie to that list. Its adjective is TBD, at least until the end of this review.
Perfect Date Environment
The first thing you notice about Fleurie is how tiny and quiet it is. This restaurant is a little bigger than Petit Pois and contributes to a very intimate environment. The lights are dim and the tablecloths are perfectly ironed. The wood on the teeny tiny bar is dark and reminds you of those fancy pants lobby bars in boutique European hotels. I must admit, our group was the youngest in the entire restaurant. I saw more gray and white at Fleurie than what pours out of a McCormick ground pepper tin. That is not necessarily a bad thing, just expect to be stared at whenever you laugh out loud….even the kids accompanying adults feel compelled to stare at you. The ambiance can be summed up as soft, gentle, relaxing, classy and fancy. All in, this makes for a terrific fancy night on the town with your significant other kind of place.
Impeccable Service
If there is one thing I hear consistently about most restaurants in cville, it is the horrible service. I was pleasantly surprised that Fleurie’s staff was so on the ball. Not a napkin or piece of silverware was out of place. If you needed something, they were there for you. They all speak in soothing spa-like voices and are very familiar with the intricate details of the menu. If you are an aspiring waiter/ress in town, look to Fleurie as your service professor.
Insane Wine List
If you just inherited a lot of money, or might have possibly been part of a local ponzi scheme and swindled large sums of money from cville’s elite, than Fleurie might be a great place to drink wine. Not just any wine, but ridiculously overpriced French wine. It was hard to pick any decent bottle under $70. There are so many terrific bottles that you can profitably sell at a restaurant between $20-$45, its kind of a shame this menu neglects that. In any case, you don’t go to Fleurie to save money, you go there without regard to dollar signs. Just sit back and enjoy the ride.
Foie Gras Sampling
We played around with the short and simple menu and tried to pick some things that would show off the traditional French technique that Fleurie stands for. Naturally we began our meal with foie gras (goose liver), not just one way, but two ways. Lets begin with the “Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras with Lentils and Vinaigrette” ($18).
Before the apps arrived we were happily surprised with an amuse bouche. If an amuse bouche were a woman, it would be the one that gave you blue balls, but then introduced you to all her friends that were happy to sleep with you. This amuse was quite good. A miniature bowl filled with a refined potato soup topped with truffle oil teased our tongues for about 30 seconds. Its definitely nice to begin your meal with an unexpected treat.
Two well proportioned foie gras medallions sat on top of a bed of lentils, a light splash of a very nice balsamic glaze and minced bacon. The foie gras was cooked perfectly. Actually, everything on the plate was cooked to perfection. The combination of foie gras and lentils gave me the impression I was eating French country side chic. The bacon and balsamic added more depth to the plate without going over the edge. Foie gras is one of the deepest and darkest tasting organs you can eat with a flavor that requires delicate balance. Fleurie excelled on that. On overall plate balance, I would say the dish was not that terrific. All of the ingredients on the plate, including the bacon (sauteed not crispy/fried), were mushy. That is not to say they were cooked incorrectly, just that the plate lacked a contrast of textures. I think the plate would have received a 10/10 had it been complimented by a perfectly plated crispy waffle-cut potato chip or thin slices of toasted bread.
And for foie gras #2….”Parfait of Foie Gras and Chicken Livers with Virginia Maple Syrup, Grape, Almond and Celery Salad” ($14). I expected a stacked/layered light and airy concoction that looks like this or this, but was instead served what looked like terrine/pate. On the left side of a large white plate sat 2 or 3 triangular pieces of the terrine/pate looking stuff, and on the right side of the plate was the grape, almond and celery salad. I think the concept is good, but the plate should be renamed. The portions were just too big. Foie gras is a delicate thing, as are chicken livers, and need to be served with caution…too much of a good thing can really ruin it for you. The pieces of the “parfait” were quite large and the taste was even stronger than the pan seared foie gras since it had the chicken liver inside it as well. That being said, the pan seared foie gras was strongly recommended to us by the wait-staff as the best foie gras dish.
Food Gives New Meaning To “Butter is a French person’s best friend”
Another appetizer we tried had lump crab meat on top of a butternut squash puree surrounded by a chive sauce. The lump crab meat was excellent as was the puree. The biggest issue I found, and was something that followed us throughout the evening, was the excessive use of butter. I know, in America we think French people’s version of Lever 2000 is a bar of land o’ lakes in the shower. Instead of Degree antiperspirant, they use, yep, butter. Well, at least that is what I think the chef in command thinks. The chive sauce surrounding the pretty puree/crabmeat in the middle of the plate was comprised of something between 1/4 and 1/2 stick of unsalted butter. It was literally melted butter mixed with chopped chives. I know the thought of butter and crab is intoxicating and probably reminds you of beer-laden crab fests in July, but this was over the top.
Butter, like any other ingredient in cooking, has to be used judiciously. Perhaps people in town like their food with extra butter. I think its more a show of improper cooking technique than anything else. That dish would have done infinitely better with a fine lobster bisque dotting the plate instead of unsalted butter soup.
Dinner Time
The entrees arrived on boiling hot plates at the same time. We enjoyed the filet mignon (something I never eat outside my home, but am happy I did), the pan seared sea scallops and the organic salmon. I think the best dish was the filet mignon. I ordered it medium rare and was reassured by the super friendly staff that it was not coming out of a refrigerator, but a meat drawer ensuring my cut would be cooked at room temperature. Hey, its all in the details. It was cooked perfectly and tasted like heaven. A nice char on the outside with the pink to raw (not cold raw, warm raw, like roast beef) in the middle. The real gripe I had about this dish was that it was supposed to be served with some kind of gnocchi. The filet sat on top of a square piece of something that tasted like a cheesy polenta, just not as grainy. Apparently they like to make their gnocchi square, which for something supporting a large filet is perfect. Neither the taste nor texture matched that of gnocchi though, so I was left confused.
The scallops were big and beautiful, exactly how I like my………………….steak (you dirty kids). As you can see from the above picture, the sauce has a lot of butter. This time, the butter muted the scallop flavor and I think, prohibited it from fully cooking. I mean, we didn’t eat a scallop that hopped off the plate, but the outside could have been a little bit crispier. That nice balance of white scallop flesh and light to dark brown burned scallop/butter on the outside is what you want.
Ah, the butterman had his way with the salmon as well. It was served on a bed of green veggies/sauce, and the sauce was entirely comprised of butter.
Needless to say by the time dessert came around, we were a bit squeamish. And while we said no to the sugar, Fleurie did send over a plate of mini pastries, which again, were unexpected and delicious.
Verdict
The ambiance and service were top notch and the food had its winners and losers. The heavy use of butter turned me off for many of the dishes, which is to not say that others wouldn’t like this. The principles behind the food are good. You can totally tell they take pride in what they do, they just need to keep that butter under lock and key. I think I will have to go back to Fleurie and try other things on the menu because I see promise. If you have a special occasion to celebrate, or feel like treating your sweetheart for something luxurious, then this is definitely the place. Until the butter is used less, or my palate changes, I prefer Petit-Pois (which, coincidntally is owned by the same people) as the default destination for all of your French culinary fantasies in town.
[picture from Fluerie website]
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I thought butter was the basic element of French cooking but good review despite the horrible grammar.
butter is indeed one of the basic elements of French cooking, but that doesn’t mean it can be used without regards to quantity. that’s what makes a great chef, knowing how to combine the right amount of ingredients for a balanced taste.
in Fleurie’s case the overuse of butter draws more attention to the butter itself where proper cooking technique would use the butter to draw out/highlight the other flavors on the plate.
some old guy at beer run the other night tried to tell me that the service at fleurie was horrible. crazy.
he must have arrived after they closed, and was waiting for the front door to open….for hours
@2: Are you a chef, cocoNUT?
Foie Gras is ethically destestable, further…
…hey wait, that stick of butter is trying to get my attention.
no I am not a professional chef, but I was raised watching proper French cooking techniques by French chefs and learned it as I grew up. butter was the first lesson (of course), but I was always told to be careful when you use it; too little you burn the food, too much you over saturate it, just right….basically food porn.
my thoughts on the butter here can be compared to any other cuisine that usually uses one main ingredient in all of its cooking (Spanish-saffron, Thai-chili powder, Italian-olive oil, etc…)
@6: somehow I knew mentioning foie gras would bring out an animal activist.
@7: I still think your criticism is overly harsh but oh well. All I can say is that the lump crab dish makes me Jizz in My Pants.
somehow I knew mentioning foie gras would bring out an animal activist.
Blow me, butter boy. You know I am no “animal activist”. One does not have to be in peta to think distended bird organs are a little on the gross side – so stuff your dismissive tone with lentils and vinaigrette. Besides, it was just a lead in to a joke, so I suggest you wash some of that vagi-silica out with some Norwegian water you culinary ne’er-do-well.
That said, good review.
/oof. im in a mood. downright retartareded.
@8 I believe that can be treated with antibiotics
Foie Gras is ridiculous, pointless, dumb and cruel. Hence, it is trendy right now, like TV game shows. In some areas you even get small local sustainable artisanal husbandry farms which sell the dreaded glop and get in a tiff with local sustainable animal-friendly foodies. But I don’t think we’re that cool yet.
Um, we’ve already had the foie gras smackdown and in it Lys came on and let us know that not all geese are forcefed, some lead very nice lives. So spare me the foie gras whinefest. Yes, it sucks when they forcefeed them. Maybe you should find out where Fleurie gets their stuff from and what the story is on that before condemning it.
Pointess, dumb, and cruel is in right now? Man, here I was feeling bad for flaming Nut’s nuts, but it turns out I am just so. hawt. right. now.
Bitchin.
/”strike a poser, there’s nothing to it…”
according to their menu, they purchase their foie gras from:
http://www.hudsonvalleyfoiegras.com/
there is a news clip from an interview they did with the New York Times which says this about their treatment of animals:
@8, i really don’t intend this to be a harsh review. i think the food has promise, but that promise was masked by butter. i will gladly revisit Fleurie if this issue is resolved.
I totally agree with cocoNUT about the rampant overuse of butter. It’s often an attempted disguise for mediocrity, at second-rate restaurants as well as at many places that should know better. (That’s not snarking at Fleurie. I’ve never dined there and therefore don’t criticize it — but I do appreciate the warning.)
I would like to discuss the under use of suet in today’s modern french cuisine.
@15: Coco doesn’t get that they use very expensive french butter at this place and that’s why everything tastes go damn good. You can’t criticize French cuisine for being heavy and rich, that’s its very nature.
You can’t criticize French cuisine for being heavy and rich
Unlike Oprah.
Wanker.
foie gras is yummy. i am having some tonight.
<Blow me Butter boy
Haha I just saw that. Love it.
I often use too much butter when I make my specialty: Bacon Wrapped Twinkie Stonehenge, which makes it somewhat unhealthy.
/I am not a chef, but I grew up around proper senile white trash, and ate a lot of napkins…
Whoops! Bad Linky. Once again….
Bacon Wrapped Twinkie Stonehenge
speaking of proper white trash cuisine…
“so the funnel and tube used for feeding are not seriously abrasive”
That’s your defense?
You can’t criticize French cuisine for being heavy and rich, that’s its very nature.
@15, I agree that heavy and rich can be yummy. But that’s not the same as slathering obscene amounts of butter on something (typically steak, seafood or veggies) to tart-up a dish or to divert attention from defects in ingredients or technique. And I’m not talking about French cuisine in particular. In a wonderfully atmospheric kabab restaurant in a sketchy Istanbul neighborhood, the server beamed with pride as he smothered my perfectly grilled lamb in what I’m sure he considered to be the crowning touch of luxury…..an entire cup of melted butter. Gaack.
I’m not even against meat, or putting reins on horses, or McDonalds dollar menu, or nuthin’ like it.
But abusing a goose so some rich fucks can get an obscene thrill from their naughtiness offends even me. Come on, this is food porn, and not the good kind.
I meant @17
@26: I meant what cocoNut said not 15
@27: See 12
Here’s what I think of Foie Gras:
Le Corbusser Et Papin Dans – Le Parfum De Foie grass
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sbs1pef3CH0
The simple fact is people eat it because it tastes good. And place like Fleurie serve it because there is demand for it. That doesn’t make it right but a lot in this world isn’t right.
Also, Fleurie serves the best foie gras in town so we should talk about that and not get into tired anti-foie gras arguments. Hasn’t anyone else ever eaten there that can offer anything to this review? I think this is the best fancy restaurant hands down.
I went there on a coupon and was uninspired. But that was long ago… Maybe it was an off night or the waiter was unispired by our coupon. I had a good meal once near Gare du Nord in Paris, but I doubt Cville could offer that level of mid-price unpretentious competence. It’s such a scam here. We don’t even pay the waiters. Who wants a waitron with no health plan anyway?
Looking forward to that new place in Belmont.
@32 i abosoluvely love fleurie. i had the filet and the tona mosiac and some gnocchi thing that was actually tge best food evar. i don’t see how abnyoe could copm[plain about anytihnng evar.
this is not my computer and i think the keyus are in differnet places so that’s why i’m typicng like a retad.
speakcing of fouie gras, we had faux gras, which was chicken livers with black truffle, for passed hors doruvers; then we had fois gras for the 2ned course with some rabbit thing undferneath and the fouis gras was suposed to be like thinly sliced carpaccio but i thought it was like a fried oyster. on top of my rabbit whichwas the highluight of muy life. omfg. i love kesiwck hall.
Re foie gras: Won’t cook it, serve it, or eat it. Others are welcome to, but that’s my personal line in the sand. If you can get through all the pics here and can still eat foie gras, then I salute you. At least you’re an informed diner. But pretending that these birds aren’t kept in an awful state is ludicrous.
http://www.gourmetcruelty.com/inv.php
@ 34 My Chef says “Hi” Jessica Rabbit!!
We ate at Fleurie last night, and it was delicious! Yes, INCREDIBLY rich food, but we expected that. We had read the review here on Cvillain before we went, and were a bit worried, but went anyway. We figured, it’s a French restaurant (not a French Bistro, with the lighter fare). The food is inevitably going to be rich and crammed full of cream and butter.
It is a lovely little place, to be sure, and we didn’t find it overly quiet or fancy. They were playing Louis Armstrong and 40s big band music, which lent it a lively atmosphere.
To start, they brought us a little sample cup of a potato soup/puree with truffle oil on top, which was flavorful, but to us seemed more like a sauce than a soup. It was interesting to try, though.
We started with a bowl of the lobster bisque, which they helpfully split for us. The flavors of the terragon and madeira were perfectly balanced, which I appreciated because sometimes I think people can be too heavy handed with tarragon and ruin a dish. I think splitting it is the way to go, since it is very rich, and a whole bowl would have ruined us for the rest of the meal.
For our meal, we decided to order a number of appetizers and forgo the entrees. We realize that our selections, being appetizers, may have been richer than some of the entrees, but to us these looked more appealing than the entrees, and we wanted a selection of things to try. Anyway, the entrees also came with sauces like bernaise sauce, or butter sauces, they may have been equally rich. We ordered the following:
Oyster Gratin –fine, but not our favorite part of the meal. Maybe would have been better if all the other dishes we’d ordered hadn’t been as rich and creamy as they were. Good to sop up with their bread, however, which was also of good quality. I ate more bread than usual, because it was so good, when usually I try not to fill up on bread.
Lump Crabmeat on Butternut Squash Puree–Yum. The crabmeat was perfect, and the squash was sweet and delicate. yes, the sauce had a lot of butter in it, but I simply didn’t eat it. Problem solved.
Salad with pecans and rouqefort– Not outstanding, but good. The cheese was excellent, and the salad was a good idea to give us something lighter than the rest of the meal.
Shrimp Risotto with Lobster Sauce– Possibly the best thing I’ve ever eaten in my life. Wow. Perfectly prepared, creamy, rich. I think if I ever went back I would make a meal of just this and a salad.
Finally, they brought us a little plate of free desserts. Truffle (which we don’t care for in general), a little soft cookie (okay), and little lemon meringue tarts, which were excellent.
We rolled out of there after 1 1/2 hours, stuffed and groaning.
I would definitely recommend Fleurie. Not on a regular basis, because one’s arteries can’t take it, but for a special treat, or with careful selection of dishes? Absolutely. It was my birthday, and it was a perfect treat.
I vote to replace Maeby as the food reviewer.
You can’t replace someone that has yet to be placed. Write it again and try harder.
@39 she stated binge drinking early (again!) and she doesn’t think that Coconut is worth a poop as a reviewer
@35 I’ve treated cats affected with hepatic lipidosis. It makes them anorexic, lethargic, painful, jaundiced and swollen. There is little resistance left in them and drawing blood or giving injections was like treating a corpse-these cats are so painful they cant move. Then they end up dying which is almost a relief considering how awful they seem to feel.
Next time, before bagging them and tossing them in the freezer, maybe I should harvest some livers?
A day in the life of the McIntire family-”Hey Junior, run to the freezer and grab me a bag of Tater Tots… second shelf down between the frozen Tabby and the Siamese….thanks Kiddo”
@ 41 No see if it were distended CAT livers, that would be totally wrong, but since they are geese, its totally fine. Get it?
@43 is it the same reason that we have goose down pillows and not cat hair ones? It all makes total sense now
Foie gras in this country is almost always duck liver, technically “foie gras de canard”.
is almost always duck liver
Its the ultimate avian game of duck duck goose then, eh.
Insterating.
@44 I dont know, it seems like all my pillows are cat hair pillows.
@47: I gives u cat lady sympathiez.
Talking of cats, read this, just posted on Craigslist …LOL
Why don’t they just put their damn food away? Sheesh.
loves loves loves loves loves loves loves loves.